February 27, 2023

Top 6 Shows You Missed at New York Fashion Week

NYFW came to a close last week, and I’m still processing the conceptualized tailoring and excitement that graced the runway this season. Rodarte began the season with a gothic fairy-inspired collection inside the Williamsburg Savings Bank. At the same time, Christian Siriano brought on a dark and sexier reference to the iconic actress Audrey Hepburn, who was full of glamour and star power.

The good thing is that designers also produced creative shows while providing pieces people can utilize in their wardrobes. Hillary Taymour at Collina Strada played with animal prosthetics while telling a compelling story about not eating animals and creating a toned-down collection that was still fun compared to her others.

Designers like Dion Lee and LaQuan Smith continue to awaken a new sense of sexiness that’s provocative and well-made for the body. Models walked in powerful silhouettes and precise cuts that outlined the body to redefine grown-up sensuality. Revealing the body in confident and empowering ways, I wouldn’t be surprised to see artists such as Chlöe or Anitta wearing one of their pieces while performing on stage or social media.

Thom Browne and Piotrek Panszcyk at Area invoked creativity by collaging silhouettes and childlike imagination to create stories in refreshing – and decaying – ways.

Overall, designers and brands realize that their customers are growing, and creating collections that reflect that is crucial. Imagination and practicality were essential in creating a group that could hold us over to September, and I can’t say that my fashion spirit is fulfilled. Still, a few shows stood out the most; those are the ones we’re here to discuss.

1. It’s start with the fantastic tailor and designer Thom Browne. It’s something about a show that not only provides beautiful and artistically made clothing but can provide a set and reference that is just as persuasive to make his audience want to take the journey with him. In the middle of the theater, at the Shed in Hudson Yards, sat a large aircraft that stood as a narrative pillar. A pilot and a lost prince started the show in a quilted suit and midi-dress under a grey jacket.

The collection provided strict tailoring and deconstructed silhouettes, bringing a particular uniform to the story. Long coats, kilts, and silk dresses were one of the few looks that were showcased this season. With Thom Browne now as Chairman of the CFDA and back showing in New York, I suspect he will continue to be a master craftsman and storyteller.

2. Hillary Taymour at Collina Strada made a fun collection animated with human and animal hybrids using animal prosthetics and sleek models. It’s something special about seeing a message that’s taken literally. A collection titled “Please Don’t Eat My Friends” incorporated eco-satin, fur printed material, reptile-skin print, and animal-themed collar cuts.

She also included a mix of classic American pieces with grungy, ’90s-inspired prints and sprinkles of floral appliqué on the hems. Successful designers think of their customers first while designing a collection, and that’s what Taymour did this season.

3. LaQuan Smith has created his definition of sexiness and glamour over the past few years, and it was no different this season. Smith focused on tailoring and sharp, clean lines while providing an edgy and sophisticated taste. Alexis Carrington Colby from dynasty being a reference point, LaQuan provided empowering silhouettes that elevated confidence and sensuality.

Tuxedo-like little black dresses, body celebrated sleek cutouts, and a mix of menswear inspired by his recent collaboration with Lenny Kravitz that gave his audience cool modern rocker looks that were soft yet powerful and stood out.

4. Another sexy show was by Australian designer Dion Lee. Lee has been known to create pieces for the party crowd, and no party ever starts on time. Precise cuts, slinky dresses, mini skirts, and cropped tops dominated the runway, but he also tapped into his idea of the animal kingdom like Taymour at Collina Strada. Lee wanted to focus on how plants and reptiles shed their skin, and he did that by providing looks with peeling rubber and wide-gauge knits.

Distressed denim, reptilian signature leather, and scale-like body fish netting were other ways Lee expressed himself this season. Overall, Lee made a tremendous impression that differed significantly from the previous season’s last leaf and nature motif. I’m sure this collection will give viral Instagram moments amongst the stars.

5. Piotrek Panszczyk of Area has taken a different approach to his collection this season. Before the show began, guests could hear the buzzing of flies through the speakers. The time around, he’s less about the hardiness of embellishment and more about fabric basics. This season was about the exciting life of fruit and its process to decay.

Panszyk provided banana sculptures shaped and cut into skirts and cropped tops, emphasizing specific colors like purple, pink, and white that were meant to mimic the colors of bruised fruit. Area also showed the beauty of age with his diverse casting choice. Panszcyk has no problem taking his reference points literally, and I’m looking forward to how he interprets his vision into wearable reality. 

6. Catherine Holstein at Khaite understands stripped-down tailoring and subtle, bold statements. The collection was soft and well-made that was still strong in its own right. Sharp and powerful energy filled the runway with fun shearling pumps finishing some of the looks (a season favorite for me).

Shearling was used in ways that were very reminiscent of Phoebe Philo’s Celine but, at the same time, had its own identity. Holstein provided a powerful collection to which many professional women will be drawn this season. 

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